On Friday, we met for dinner with our tour members and Servas Israeli hosts to mingle and share information about our countries.
On the way, we saw old armored vehicles along the road – preserved to remember the many who fought and died so that Jewish people could have a country.
According to “The Convoy Skeletons” by Gil Gertel & Noam Even,“[T]he vehicles that brought food, water and arms from Tel Aviv to besieged Jerusalem in early 1948. . . were extremely vulnerable. Piles of stones were placed along the width of the road forcing the drivers to halt. Then snipers hidden between the rocks in the hills near the road, would open fire on the riders and vehicles.
Most of the trucks belonged to various kibbutz cooperative transport companies. Many of the drivers volunteered; the return trip was also via convoy. . . .
LESSER KNOWN FACTS
* During the battle for the road to Jerusalem, 230 convoys set out to bring supplies to the besieged city. . .
* Over 3100 trucks made their way to Jerusalem carrying 10,500 tons of supplies. . . .
* In February 1948 – 1299 trucks made the uphill trip to Jerusalem, in 81 convoys.
The armored vehicles symbolize the courage of those who guarded the convoys and who sacrificed their lives to bring supplies to the besieged city of Jerusalem. In the battles on the road to Jerusalem, more than 400 fighters were killed,
Our Servas Israel hosts served great Middle Eastern food including hummus, wonderful olives, breads, . . .
My favorite presentation was the one from Russia (and you will understand why). The Russian women showed crafts and gave a slide show about beautiful Lake Baikal, located in the south of Siberia. We learned that Lake Baikal, which is about 25 million years old, is the largest (by volume) freshwater lake in the world; it contains about 20% of the world’s unfrozen surface fresh water and at 1,642 m (5,387 ft), the deepest and among the clearest of all lakes. It contains more water than all the U.S. Great Lakes combined!
Baikal is home to more than 1,700 species of plants and animals, two-thirds of which can be found nowhere else in the world. In 1996, Lake Baikal became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temperatures are cool: a winter minimum of −19 °C (−2 °F) to a summer maximum of 14 °C (57 °F). Lake Baikal is very beautiful and a wonderful place to visit.
Then the Russians ladies gave us typical Russian treats to eat and Lake Baikal water to drink. When the bottle came around, I poured a cup for Manda and another for me. I took a big gulp —- then I realized it wasn’t clear, cold Lake Baikal water, but another liquid for which Russia is famous: vodka!
For Manda, it was the first time she’d had alcohol in 20 years! But no harm was done – and we all got plenty of laughs out of the presentation. We could see that Russians are fun-loving people. Beware, however, when a Russian offers you “water”!
Besides getting to know Servas members and learn about other countries, we also heard from Franco Collodet, an Italian sociologist and philosophy professor from the Institute Volterra-Elia of Ancona.
In several earlier pilgrimages, Franco Collodet has walked the roads of Europe — to Rome, Lourdes, Fatima, and Santiago de Compostela — tracing the ancient routes that arrive in major places of worship. Collodet says he is inspired by integration among peoples.
In his latest pilgrimage, Collodet walked 4,100 kilometers (2,547.62 miles) from the Cathedral of Ancona in Italy to Jerusalem, arriving on Christmas 2014! He shared highlights of his “Send Your Prayer to Jerusalem” experience.
Servas hosts and tour members had a wonderful evening together.
Our following day tour was Christmas in Jerusalem.
At 10:00 a.m., we met at Jaffa Gate of the Old City and viewed the walls surrounding the Old City of Jerusalem – a city of many faiths.
We walked to the Christian Quarter and saw the Franciscan Church of ST. SAVIOUR- St Salvador, a beautiful Italian style church decorated for Christmas.
The Crypt of the Basilica marks the place where after the Resurrection of Jesus, Mary lived and died.
At the heart of the Christian quarter, The Church of the Holy Sepulcher honors the site where Jesus was crucified, buried, and arose. The Stations of the Cross end here.
The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is controlled by – the Greek Orthodox, who own its central worship space, the Catholics, and the Armenian Orthodox. The three groups have yet to agree on how to restore the crypt area damaged by fire.
We also visited the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer.
We walked then through the Jewish Quarter of narrow alleys to visit at the Wailing Wall and then climbed up to Mt. Zion.
The Muslim shrine located on the Temple Mount within the Old City Walls of Jerusalem, The Dome of the Rock, is considered by some the “most recognized of Jerusalem’s landmarks.” It was first completed in 691 CE.
The site’s great religious significance for Jews, Christians, and Muslims stems from religious traditions regarding the rock, the Foundation Stone, at the heart of The Dome of the Rock.
Although the Israelis captured the Dome of the Rock in 1967 during the Six-Day War, the country gave the Muslims authority to manage the Temple Mount to “keep the peace.”
In 1993, King Hussein of Jordan donated $8.2 million to refurbish the dome with 80 kilograms of gold! No wonder it glows in the sun.
Then we walked on to visit The Last Supper Room.
And we saw Dormition Abbey – a golden, highly decorated church that contains the tomb of the Virgin Mary.
We walked again along the walls of Old City Jerusalem back to the Jaffa Gate – to end another wonderful day full of history and religion and new friends.
Aloha & Shalom,
Servas Israel Tour – Part III – Places of Spirit: Sea of Galilee, Capernaum, Tabgha, and the Jordan River
Day 4 – Thursday, 25 December 2014 – our wonderful Servas Israel Tour continued.
We traveled to the Sea of Galilee on Christmas Day guided by Iris Salomon- Har Even, host in Oranit.
At 10:00 a.m., we met up at the National Park of Capernaum (Kfar Nahum)
We started at Capernaum (Kfar Nahum), where Jesus lived and began preaching.
“And Jesus, walking by the Sea of Galilee, saw two brethren, Simon called Peter and Andrew, his brother casting a net into the sea: for they were fishers.
And He saith unto them. ‘Follow me and I will make you fishers of men'” (Matthew 4:18).
Here by the Sea of Galilee and at Tabgha, I did feel spirituality everywhere: in the air, in the water, in the light – in the religious sites.
On the shore of the Sea of Galilee is a Greek Orthodox monastery:
“The Church of the Twelve Apostles takes its name from the Gospel account of Jesus choosing the Twelve in this area of Galilee.
But it is also known as the Church of the Seven Apostles — a reference to Jesus’ post-resurrection appearance by the Sea of Galilee to seven of his disciples — Simon Peter, Thomas, Nathanael, James and John and two other disciples” (John 21). . . .
After the Six Day War in 1969, when Israel pushed its border back to the Golan Heights, restoration of the church began first with the removal of a thick layer of cow manure covering the floor – since the church had been used for many years as a barn.
Between 1995 and 2000 the church was redecorated by a Greek iconographer with an eclectic array of Byzantine-style frescoes inspired by works in Orthodox churches and monasteries in various parts of the world, in particular the Balkans. The church glows in the light.
A small, cross-shaped building with white walls, the Church of the Twelve Apostles has two central domes surrounded by six smaller ones, each topped by a cross. As you can see, brightly-colored frescoes and icons cover most of the ceilings and walls of the church.
Inside one dome, Christ the Pantocrator (All-powerful) is surrounded by a chorus of 12 prophets who foretold his coming.”
Tabgha (ancient Heptapegon) on the north-western shore of the Sea of Galilee is the accepted site of Jesus’ miracle of the multiplication of the loaves and fishes (Mark 6:30-46) and also of the fourth resurrection appearance (John 21:1-24). Until 1948, it was the site of a Palestinian Arab village.
The site’s name is derived from the Greek name Heptapegon (“seven springs”).
Its pronunciation gradually changed to “Tabego”, and was eventually changed to “Tabha” by the Arabic speakers. St. Jerome referred to Heptapegon as “the solitude.” From: <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tabgha>.
The Chronicle of Pilgrimage to the Holy Land: The Adventures, The Events, The Holy Sites Go to: <http://www.amazon.com/Chronicle-Pilgrimage-The-Holy-Land/dp/965724000X>.
The Church of the Heptapegon – Seven Springs is built over where Jesus laid the fish and the five loafs of bread on a big rock before distributing the food that would feed five thousand (Mark 6:30-44).
However, I loved the views from inside!
Then we saw the Church of the Multiplication at Tabgha – also so named because of Jesus’ miracle. The church is modern but stands on the site of 4th and 5th-century churches. It too preserves splendid early Christian mosaics as well as the traditional stone on which the miraculous meal was laid.
One of the wonderful aspects of this Servas Israel Tour was getting to meet others from around the world.
The Church of the Primacy of St. Peter is north of the Church of the Multiplication and was built on rocks at the shore of the Sea of Galilee. It’s considered the place where Jesus appeared the fourth time after his resurrection (John 21:1-24), during which, according to Catholic teaching, Jesus again conferred primacy of Simon Peter.
Pope John Paul II was a pilgrim to Tabgha in March, 2000.
After a delightful time at these holy places, we next traveled to the Jordan River, the baptism site of Jesus:
My brother Alan said he would’ve done the immersion, but it was December, already getting dark, and I’m a wimp, so I didn’t! However, many Christians braved the cold and were re-baptized in the Jordan River. Many collected water from the river to take home.
Behind schedule on this wonderful day and way after sunset, we said our goodbyes and headed back with our hosts to their homes. On our way to Barry and my Servas home, we got to stop at a fantastic Japanese restaurant: Osaka – Asian Kitchen and Sushi Bar in Ra’anana – wonderful. <https://www.facebook.com/osakarestaurant/posts/552482348116139>.
This day – Christmas Day 2014 – was personally the most spiritual of our Servas Israel Tour. I hope you will get such an experience too.
Shalom and Aloha, Renée
Our fabulous Tour Israel with Servas continued.
Day 3 – Wednesday 24 December 2014
Our morning began with a great breakfast with our Servas hosts: Shoshana and Shmuel.
We were lucky to be handed off to Shlomy, Servas Coordinator Claudia’s husband, and while we waited to meet up with others, he gave us an impromptu tour of Haifa, a city he loves.
We started at the Bahá’í Gardens:
“The Bahá’í teachings emphasize that each person is in charge of his or her own spiritual development. <http://www.bahai.org/action/response-call-bahaullah/walking-spiritual-path>.
Bahá’í members recognize and celebrate all religious leaders.
“The Bahá’í Gardens in Haifa comprise a staircase of nineteen terraces extending all the way up the northern slope of Mount Carmel. At its heart stands the golden-domed Shrine of the Báb,which is the resting place of the Prophet-Herald of the Bahá’í Faith.” From: <http://www.ganbahai.org.il/en/haifa/>
In much of the art throughout Haifa is a plea for peace.
In the Museum Without Walls:
The artworks scattered along the Art Route explore the themes of tolerance, an Arab-Jewish and multicultural dialogue, and the local heritage of the neighborhood. The exhibit was inaugurated in 1993 by the Beit HaGefen Arab-Jewish Culture Center, Haifa Municipality, and the Wadi Nisnas Neighborhood Association as a shared multicultural celebration.
We left Haifa to join up with our Servas Tour members in Nazareth.
According to the Nazareth website, “The city of Nazareth was a small and insignificant agricultural village in the time of Jesus. It had no trade routes, was of little economic importance and was never mentioned in the Old Testament or other ancient texts. . . .
During the lifetime of Mary, Joseph and Jesus, it is believed the population did not exceed 500. Nazareth was a small Jewish village where people knew one another, and like Jesus, lived, prayed and studied in the Jewish tradition. They gathered in the synagogue, meeting for prayer and holidays. . . .The New Testament mentions Nazareth many times, referring to it as the home of Mary and Joseph, the town that inspired Jesus during his childhood and early manhood, the place of the Annunciation . . .
From the 1st to the 4th century AD, the small Christian presence in Nazareth was often persecuted for their beliefs. It was only later towards the 6th century . . . that the town of Nazareth became the Christian pilgrimage site it is to this day. During this time, the Byzantines built one of the first churches on what was believed to be the site of the Annunciation. With the arrival of the Crusaders in 1099, an era of growth began . . . With the defeat of the Crusaders in 1291 by the Muslim army and during Ottoman Rule (1517 – 1917), Nazareth fell into decline. It was only in 1720, when the Franciscans built a new church, that the site of the Annunciation was again revived. In 1955, the church was demolished to carry out extensive archaeological excavations and was finally rebuilt in 1969” <http://www.nazareth-israel.com/nazarteh-history>.
Nazareth is now a bustling, growing city of about 74,000 and home to the largest Arab community in Israel. Nazareth has changed from an isolated village of little importance to one of most important sites for Christians.
Because I was raised Christian (Episcopalian) and now identify as a Quaker, I did expect a spiritual experience especially since we were there for Christmas Eve!
In Nazareth, we walked the cobble-stoned streets of the Old City, visited the famous spring and Mary’s well, and saw the remains of a cavern believed to be Joseph’s carpentry shop. And because we were there on Christmas Eve, we got to see what the people living there do to celebrate.
Mary’s well was the our first religious site on the Servas tour that afternoon. The Church of St. Gabriel, (also known as the Orthodox Church of Annunciation and The Greek-Orthodox Church), is located over an underground spring, which is believed to be where the Virgin Mary was drawing water when the Angel Gabriel said to her,
“The Holy Spirit will come upon you,
and the power of the Most High will overshadow you;
therefore the child to be born will be called holy,
the Son of God.” (Luke 1:35).
In modern times, Mary’s spring is at the end of the subterranean chamber in the Church of St. Gabriel.
We walked along the Pilgrim’s Path to the Basilica of Annunciation, the Catholic site that also recognizes and celebrates Gabriel’s visit to Mary. The Basilica marks the spot for Catholics of the Annunciation.
We also saw the White Mosque, built in 1785. It’s the oldest of the mosques built in Nazareth. According to its website, the White Mosque is now managed and maintained by the al-Fahoum family. The mosque sends out messages of peace and harmony and seeks good relations especially with the “different Christian communities in town” <http://www.nazarethinfo.org/OldSite.aspx?levelId=63490>.
The White Mosque is located in Harat Alghama or the “Mosque Quarter” in the center of Nazareth’s Old Market.
We ate in the Old Market and got to taste local food and sweets, including baklawa and the Middle-Eastern kenafi or kunafa, a cheese pastry soaked in sweet sugar-based syrup.
At 15:00, we started lining up along the Christmas Parade route, which ran from Paul 6th St to the Annunciation Church (Basilica).
17:15 – Near the Basilica of Annunciation, we watched the balloon release and the Christmas parade. We wandered around looking at the parade and the people coming to celebrate.
In his book Green Crescent Over Nazareth: The Displacement of Christians by Muslims, Raphael Israeli notes that in 1918 when the British marched into Nazareth, the city then had a population of about 8,000 – 2/3 Christian and the rest Muslim. Today, Nazareth, known as “the Arab capital of Israel, has a population made up predominantly of Arab citizens of Israel, almost all of whom are either Muslim (69%) or Christian (30.9%).
Because the British ruled Nazareth for 30 years, the numerous bagpipers in the Christmas parade must be one lingering influence.
At the finale of the parade, we got to see the fireworks as part of the Christmas celebration.
For our Servas Tour, we didn’t go to Bethlehem for Christmas Eve since the town is usually overwhelmed with Christian pilgrims. Nazareth did have its own special sites, and we got to see and do things we hadn’t expected as part of our celebration. One surprise was that the Christmas carols, which I love to sing, were sung – in neither Latin nor English – but in Arabic! It seemed that everyone participated – especially in the parade. Santa was there in Nazareth for the young children.
As for the spiritual renewal I expected since we were there where Jesus had actually lived and walked, it didn’t happen there for me.
Instead, Nazareth was a great experience in people watching and seeing historical and religious sites. Being in Nazareth was also a good reminder that when you travel, experiences – especially others than those you expect – are the ones to keep you in the moment and help you appreciate what is really there.
Aloha and Shalom, Renée
It was a wonderful, whirlwind tour of the country hosted by Servas Israel. Barry and I (and John) have been Servas travelers and hosts since 2002, and many of our best experiences involve visiting with Servas members.
However, the Servas Israel Christmas Tour was beyond our normal experience of staying with people we didn’t know and learning of their lives. “Servas home stays,” says the website, “provide insight into the political, cultural and social realities that face people of diverse cultures and backgrounds around the world.” Go to -(https://www.usservas.org/Membership/). On this tour opportunity, not only did we stay with local families but we were also guided around Israel by people who live there.
We did much and saw much, but it is only now that I’m reporting since I’ve had trouble retrieving my photos and only now are we back home. So here is an overview of the highlights of the first part of that fabulous 10-day tour.
On December 22, 2014, we started our Israel Servas Tour with an evening gathering in Jerusalem. Other Servas travelers were from Belarus, Russia, Poland, Germany, Italy, India, the Czech Republic, Spain, Sweden, and the UK. Surprisingly, Barry and I were the only ones from the U.S.
The people on the tour were varied and interesting. One Servas woman whom I was sure was from the UK because of her accent and manner is actually from Sweden. She says that she’s always been an Anglophile :). I’d never meet anyone from Belarus – and there were two! One woman is a flamenco dancer; one young couple have built a community center; one had written a book about his studies abroad. Everyone was open and friendly. We got to meet not only Israelis but also others from around the world.
Day 2 – Tuesday – 23 December 2014 Guided Tour to Kibbutz Kfar Masarik – Akko – Haifa We had a really full day starting off at 7:30 a.m. at Kfar Masarik, one of the first kibbutz – started even before the creation of Israel. Located in the western Galilee, Kfar Masarik was founded by Czechoslovakian and Lithuanian immigrants in 1932. In 1937, they were joined by Polish immigrants. Despite opposition from those who reasoned that the sandy soil could not support agriculture, the kibbutz grew, and in 1940, the kibbutz moved to its present site and was renamed Kfar Masaryk after Tomás Garrigue Masaryk, the first President of Czechoslovakia.
Our Servas hosts in Kfar Masaryk, Haim and Avraham told us about the kibbutz: The First and Second Aliyah (immigration wave), the situation in the country and in Europe at the time and the establishment of a pioneering settlement outside the main urban centers of the time, including the many difficulties involved.
They noted the social structure of the kibbutz work – of sharing and equality, the difficulties in everyday life — family split apart from children, laundry services, dining, clothing, and various members’ decisions. The guides also said a few words about the present privatization, which is happening with most of the surviving kibbutz in Israel today.
10:00 – Our guided tour in Acre (aka Akko) started at an elaborate Tunisian synagogue where we learned basic concepts of Judaism. The mosaic motifs on the walls represent an integrated Jewish Heritage & Holocaust Zionism in a unique place.
While many synagogues are in humble buildings, the Tunisian Djellaba Synagogue in Akko is the only one of its kind in the world; all four stories, within and without, display spectacular mosaics (from Kibbutz Eilon).
As we toured Acre/Akko, we learned about its significance during the Crusades, Arab and Turkish periods until today. We visited the fortress walls, went inside the local ruler’s fortress, remotely viewing the Knights Halls.
Located directly under the city built above it, a perfectly preserved Crusader city is being unearthed and brought back to life in Akko.
The Old City of Akko is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The walls and fortresses, knights’ halls, churches, synagogues, and mosques are all reminders of the city’s conquerors and religions, from the Canaanites and Romans to the Crusaders, Turks, and British.
12:30 Midday break – lunch at a local eastern restaurant/eatery.
Then we got to wander through the Acre markets.
The Akko Port was first mentioned in relation to the Greek campaign to conquer Egypt in 527-525 BC.
The port had been built during the reign of Ptolemais II (285-246 BC), transforming Akko into an international port city and the gateway to Israel. It reached its zenith during the conquest by the Crusaders. In the 13th Century, Akko became the capital of the Crusader Kingdom in the Holy Land. After the Ottoman conquest, the port was neglected, reduced to a fisherman’s harbor.
During the British Mandate, the Akko Fortress served as the main prison in the north of the country. Prisoners included hundreds of members of the underground movements: the Haganah, Irgun, and Lehi. The Underground Prisoners Museum in Akko has a new exhibit describing reasons for incarceration, daily prison life, the Akko Prison breakout, and the story of the Olei Hagardon (those hanged on the gallows).
Then we drove for about an hour to reach downtown Haifa, the largest city in northern Israel, third largest in the country, with about 600,000 residents in the area, and home to the Bahá’í World Centre (another UNESCO World Heritage Site).
The history of the city spans more than 3,000 years.
Haifa has been conquered and ruled by the Phoenicians, Persians, Hasmoneans, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Ottomans, British, and the Israelis.
Today, Haifa is a major seaport on Israel’s Mediterranean coast and plays an important role in the economy. It is also home to one of the oldest and largest high-tech parks in the country. Haifa Bay is a center of heavy industry, petroleum refining and chemical processing. Formerly it was the western terminus of an oil pipeline from Iraq via Jordan.
Downtown Haifa connects the past and the present and points to the future. Our Servas guides noted historical factors that affect the status of Haifa as the northern province and industrial and logistics center. The cultural fabric of life of Arabs and Jews in Haifa points to a possible realization of future peace for other places in Israel.
Then, instead of joining the other Servas members at Castra – the modern center that combines a shopping and art center, Barry and I finished the eventful day by going with our Servas hosts’, Shoshana & Shmuel, to their daughter’s home for Hanukkah donuts and celebration.
I couldn’t eat just one 🙂 !
It was a wonderful way to end a varied and interesting day.
The following days would be terrific too.
Shalom and aloha,
Spring is the season of new growth and new life. . .
Our most significant growth takes place inwardly. We grow as we achieve new insights, new knowledge, new goals.
Let us raise our cups to signify our gratitude for life, and for the joy of knowing inner growth, which gives human life its meaning.
Together, with raised cups, let us say: “L-Haiyim!” – “To Life.”
– from “A Humanist Haggadah for Passover” by Machar Congregation <haggadot.com>.
Aloha & Shalom, Renée
The Old City is an integral part of Jerusalem, but I was surprised to see bullet holes in the walls.
Buskers are here too.
You’ll find street art, hip cafés, smokers, religious pilgrims, fashionable women, and lots of cell phone users.
You’ll find many high-end shops.
You’ll find friendly Israelis and Arabs interacting . You’ll eat tasty new dishes.
Israel is composed of intertwining Jewish, Arab, and Christian communities.
You’ll find water sports in Israel.
It’s warm in Israel – even in December –at least while we were there.
You’ll find old buildings:
Renovated buildings – the outside must conform to the original building facade :
And new –
You’ll find music festivals:
There’s everyday life:
We saw jet trails and lights in Jordan from our Airbnb on the Golan Heights. You’ll see school kids on field trips.
You’ll find good wines:
Arab villages in Israel are very interesting. Ruth and Danny took us to Abu Ghosh village to enjoy the great food.
“His pot of gold gives sparkle to the whole town,” said The New York Times in a piece about Jawdat Ibrahim. (<http://www.nytimes.com/1999/06/16/world/abu-ghosh-journal-his-pot-of-gold-gives-a-sparkle-to-the-whole-town.html>)
A poor Arab among second-class citizens, Jawdat Ibrahim (one of six children whose father died when Jawdat was 4) fled his childhood home of Abu Ghosh to live with his uncle in Chicago. He became a tow truck driver, rescuing cars buried in Midwest snow storms – and then he won the Illinois State Lottery in 1990. With his 22 million U.S. dollars, not only has Ibrahim opened restaurants and provided scholarships in Abu Ghosh, but he also sees himself as an emissary of peace – a bridge in Arab/Israeli relationships. As well, he has fun. Mr. Ibrahim organized Abu Ghosh residents to make the largest ever plate of hummus, winning recognition in the Guinness Book of World Records. Ibrahim donated the tasty hummus first to Israeli soldiers and then to schools, hospitals, and needy people.
Recently, the Abu Ghosh hummus Guinness record was surpassed by a group in Lebanon. Jawat Ibrahim plans to create an even bigger batch of hummus early this summer to recapture the title. Random things surprised me.
The markets are colorful and fun.
The sands look golden in Israel’s Negev Desert, which cover nearly 4,700 square miles of this small country.
With good farming practices of soil enrichment and irrigation, Israelis have been able to produce much food.
Another surprise for us in Israel were the incredible stories we heard from Israeli families.
The stories of the people who make up Israel are most amazing. During WWII, an infant who was left along the path to a church in the early morning hours wore a gold locket declaring, “Whoever takes care of me, God will bless.” Later that morning, the child’s Jewish parents were sent to a concentration camp where the mother was killed. The child’s father escaped twice and managed to survive in great part because he spoke seven languages. After the war, he searched for his child. For the same morning that he had left his daughter, town records showed that an infant girl found on the path to the church had been turned over to the Nazis and killed. With no family left, the father bought a ticket for the U.S. But on the way to the ship, he saw a gypsy fortuneteller who cautioned him, “Someone is waiting for you.”
He sold his ticket and went back to his town. He saw a girl he thought might be his daughter and followed her; she was his child! The girl was brought up on a kibbutz and has raised a healthy family. One granddaughter is now training for the Israeli Olympic swim competition! That story has been made into a play.
In another example, a Servas host’s mother had been operated on by the notorious Nazi Dr. Mengele, infamous for the selection of victims to be killed in the gas chambers and for performing unscientific and often deadly experiments on prisoners. It was a miracle that our Servas host’s mother lived – and a miracle that she was able to have a child.
Another’s story was that her grandfather acting as a recruiter for Israel had gone to Morocco to get Jewish immigrants to help populate what they hoped would be their new country. He married a 16 year-old Moroccan Jewish girl who wanted to immigrate but was too young to go on her own. They got stopped at what was then the British mandate/ Israeli border and sent to a refugee camp in Cyprus. The couple did manage to get into Israel, but it wasn’t easy.
Another woman’s mother was 17 when she got to what was then called the British Mandate for Palestine region (1922-1948) and later became the State of Israel. Although she had lost her whole family to the Nazis, the mom was sent back to Germany. We heard many such stories.
Since the State of Israel was established in 1948, the country has opened its arms to immigrants. Now with so many anti-Semitic problems in Europe, many are immigrating from there – especially the French. We met U.S. citizens immigrating too.
Also, Israel encourages 18-26 year old youth from other countries to investigate their Jewish heritage with a 10-day free trip to Israel. For more information on this incredible program (especially for non-practicing youth with even a slim Jewish heritage), go to <http://www.birthrightisrael.com>.
Wherever we went, we saw that layers of history coat the land of Israel. Caesarea, for instance, is a coastal Israeli city and an important site in Christian history built by Herod the Great about 25–13 BCE. This was where Pontius Pilate governed during the time of Jesus and an important Roman city during the Byzantine Period of the 6th-7th centuries.
The fortifications seen today in Caesarea were rebuilt by Louis IX, King of France, who came to the Holy Land in the 13th century during the Sixth Crusade.
Caesarea is now also a tourist site with restaurants and arts.
Israel is expensive. Jerusalem has much on-going building. The taxes are high: 18% on everything. An apartment in Jerusalem for a one month rental of a very nice one bedroom furnished Windows of Jerusalem Tower apartment is $146.10 (U.S.) a night or $4,529.00 a month. Windows of Jerusalem Vacation Apartments by EXP® Israel | 5 Star Luxury Vacation Rental Apartments I <http://windowsofjerusalem.com/?utm_content=4218058754&utm_term=rentals%20jerusalem&utm_campaign=Campaign+%231&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=cpc>.
Craig’s List Jerusalem offers a 2 bed/2 bath renovated apartment in the German Colony for 3,600,000 (U.S. $911,854). <http://jerusalem.craigslist.org/reb/4916541698.html> German colony Gem apartment – Loyd george street jerusalem2 You can see history and religion wherever you look in Israel.
Buildings and trees spread over Jerusalem.
Israel is rich in history and many resilient people.
There’s much more to Israel than I’ve shared. Go see for yourselves.
Shalom & Aloha, Renée
When I knew that Barry and I were getting to go to Israel, one of the first things that I wanted to do was experience working on a kibbutz, one of the communal settlements.
The first kibbutz was founded in 1909, about 40 years before the establishment of the State of Israel. The kibbutzim were founded on Communist and Socialist principles: “From each according to his ability, to each according to his needs.”
The founders, young Jewish pioneers, mainly from Eastern Europe, wanted to create a new way of life, but they had little or no experience with agriculture, and the land was barren and dry – desolate, and they have had to fight repeatedly for the land and their country.
From their inauspicious beginnings, the kibbutzim have played a dominate role in creating thriving, productive communities in Israel today.
I wanted to find a kibbutz where I could work and learn something about the agriculture there. The Israelis have created fertile, productive farm land from the neglected desert. To accomplish this, among many other techniques, the Israelis invented the drip irrigation system that delivers an appropriate amount of water to the roots of the plants, and they are leaders in desalination.
Today, most kibbutz want 20-30 year olds as strong volunteers. Or they charge to stay in a hotel room on the kibbutz. But I wanted to work and learn. So what about us? In a Google search, I found Kibbutz Lotan, located near the southern tip of Israel (in fact, only about 800 meters (1/2 mile) from the border with Jordan).
As part of their sustainability program, Lotan offers a week stay that includes attending classes, working in the gardens, and living on the kibbutz. Yeah! That’s for me. Barry wasn’t as eager as I, but he was willing to come for the experience.
The program started on a Sunday.
It was by early bus we left Eliat on Sunday morning and made it to Lotan in time for a tour and then breakfast.
This is one of the 10 visitor/volunteer rooms built of straw bales: mud, clay, and straw – over a geodesic dome. We stayed in dome nine. The thick walls kept the room cool in the day when the sun beat down and warm at night when the desert cools. Our windows looked out onto the beautiful desert, and we loved our room!
Adam, who grew up at Kibbutz Lotan, gave us a tour:
If you had to spend time in a bomb shelter, the Lotan shelter with all its books would be a perhaps tolerable place to be.
The sale of dairy and dates help sustain this kibbutz.
As all parts of a date palm are useful and needed, so too are all members of the kibbutz.
Besides living collectively and productively in sustainable ways, Kibbutz Lotan has a mission to educate others.
The kids loved their pancakes – and I did too.
And if you think the kibbutz is just about working and being productive, look at how they recycle.
Even after this VW Bug had been decorated and put in the Eco Kef playground, someone wanted a part, so he jacked up the car, got what he needed, and then set the car back down – where it is giving much pleasure to kids today.
Other Eco Kef playground structures.
The volunteers, staff, and everyone at Kibbutz Lotan encourage each other to create and make a better living environment for everyone there.
Some of the creative ideas are just for fun; some are for experimenting for new sustainable ways of planting or building.
For planting, they must take into account the salty water, high temperatures, and intense sun.
“It’s not for you to finish the task – nor are you free to desist from it.”
— from “Ethics of Our Fathers”
This garden is made from old wooden pallets turned on end. A drip system waters from the top.
How well will this “snail-shaped” garden do in the heat?
The showers and bathroom sinks have solar heated water and are housed in the mud/clay/straw structures built by the kibbutzim.
Now we come to the serious part of being ecologically conscious in this desert setting. The following may be too much information; if so, just skip ahead.
And there is a choice for doing your laundry:
The kibbutz is focused on eco-friendly life. This “washing machine” was near our dome. We could just lug over water, add soap, and, of course, our dirty clothes-then peddle for 20 minutes to agitate the clothes; then drain the soapy water, lug over and add clean rinse water, peddle more, then drain – and wring out and hang up the clothes to dry. I kept thinking I would try it, but it never happened.
The kibbutzim mainly use the communal system. So for this chore, they just turn in a basket of dirty clothes to the laundry. A night security guard puts the clothes in the washer and dryer, and then the owners pick up the washed and dried clothes in the morning!
A day at the kibbutz begins at 6 a.m., so it was still dark when we made our way over to the Eco Kef, grabbing some fresh mint along the way to add to hot water to make tea.
As we did loosening up exercises with Mike K., the sun would be rising – spectacular!
Mike K. also gave us our assignments for the early morning – most often weeding for me, but I got to plant and harvest too.
At about 8:00 a.m. we headed over to the busman, the field houses where we were all living, and got our assignments for cleanup of the communal areas. The first day, I got the compost toilets! But Hilary showed me what needed to be done, and we shared the task, so no big deal.
Then about 8:30, we went for breakfast in the communal dining hall where there was always a lot of healthy food and as much as we wanted. We could join groups already there, sit with other volunteers, and eco-staffers, to enjoy our breakfast and learn more about what everyone was doing. Then it was back to the gardens until 10:30.
At 10:30, it was on to classes or to another work assignment until about 1 p.m. For some, it was Hebrew lessons. Our first one was a case study of building a straw bale building at Wadi Al Naam.
Another class that Barry and I had was on Eco-Zionism with Michael, one of the early members of this kibbutz. It was interesting to see the questioning and discussion among the participants too.
Those who stayed longer than we did also learned practical skills such as welding and bicycle repair. That week, Keren got to learn how to drive a massive tractor!
Then lunch – again many choices, and it was all ready for us in the dining hall. The afternoons were varied. Lotan encourages participants to be creative – and useful.
These bricks will be used later for building projects.
During the time we were at Lotan, Hilary proposed to build a Hugel Mound, a no-dig raised bed of decomposing wood that retains water, maximizes surface volume, and builds fertility. In most climates, Hugel Mounds allow plants to take as much water as they need, when they need it, and the mound avoids the set-up and maintenance of a irrigation drip system. So we joined Hilary and other volunteers a few afternoons to build the Hugel.
By the time we left Lotan, our Hugel needed a few more layers of compost and mulch, and then the planting could begin. I’m sure by now, sprouts will be growing all over it.
It will be interesting to know if this mound will require less water and less compost than other beds. It was fun to be part of this planting experiment.
In the evenings, it was back to the dining hall – and more food. Some people gathered to play instruments or hang out around the field cooking fires. Israeli dancing was once a week. One night, we saw a documentary about a backyard in Australia being converted to a permaculture garden. But many just went to their rooms and read. Night comes quickly in the winter desert, and we needed to be back at the Eco Kef by 6 a.m.
However, it was a special time during the week we were there – the start of Hanukah! And we were in Israel.
On the afternoon of the first day of Hanukah, several of us tried to make pesto as our contribution to the evening. What should have been a rather simple task considering we had lots of basil and lots of hands – didn’t work. Everything that could go wrong did – including the blender blowing up! Oh well, we took fresh basil with us.
Since Barry comes from a Jewish family that always told the Hanukah story and made latkes, those oil soaked delicious potato and onion pancakes and such to celebrate, we went to the first night of Hanukah in the dining hall expecting a similar experience.
The first night of Hanukah included a farmer’s market and a crafts fundraiser for needy kids in Eliat!
The many practical, tasty, creative offerings during this first night of Hanukah raised over $1,0000 U.S. for needy kids in Eliat!
Latkes too were available to eat, but they were a healthy version made with carrots and little oil! They were one of the many things that surprised us in Israel.
Several of us including Jeremy, the new volunteer from the States who had decided to immigrate and was getting the kibbutz experience before looking for a job in Tel Aviv, all got together for the second night of Hanukah. We each made something to contribute to the meal; Keren roasted red sweet peppers from some we had picked that morning – yum! And we lit Hanukah candles.
So overall, we had a wonderful and interesting time at Kibbutz Lotan.
There are some issues, however. Although everything was peaceful at the kibbutz, we weren’t to go beyond the Lotan fence.
Are the kibbutzim changing? Well, yes.
Only about 2% of Israelis now live on kibbutzes. The economic reality is that many kibbutzes are becoming more capitalistic rather than solely socialistic.
Soon you will be able to buy land and build your own house at Lotan!
I think I could live happily at Kibbutz Lotan. However, I did sleep until 11 am the day after we left Lotan (which I haven’t done that since I was in my 20s and had stayed up all night). It was a workout!
The work and the learning are never ending, and the community life means it is shared work with a sense of purpose. It’s a place of beauty and community.
Several of the young adults there say they will probably work somewhere else after doing their army service and going to college, but they would like to return to the kibbutz to raise their children.
Kibbutz Lotan offers several terrific ecology and sustainability programs.
To find out more, go to <http://www.kibbutzlotan.com>.
“You need only ask the beasts and they will teach you, the birds of the sky will tell you, . . .”
There’s likely to be a program for you at Kibbutz Lotan.
And you never know where the learning you get at Lotan will lead you.
I loved being at Kibbutz Lotan and am looking forward to applying my new knowledge at home.
Some days are magical. Traveling often makes us pay more attention to what is around us than when we are at home and in a routine, so Israel has been very interesting for us, but Dec. 31, 2014, was really special in its variety and surprise. We woke up to the sound of a chirping bird; the sky blue as Michael, our Servas’ host and prolific painter, went off to work.
Barry and I headed out to explore more of Jerusalem and walked up toward Mt. Scopus. We’d heard that Oscar Schindler, the German who saved 1000s of Polish Jews during WWII, was buried in the British Cemetery.
So as we passed it, we went in to this well-manicured cemetery of soldiers who fought in the Palestine-Sinai campaign for the Commonwealth – 2,515 young men, mainly 20-25 years old, the markers said, from England, Ireland, India, Australia, New Zealand, who died trying to free Jerusalem from the Turks.
Besides all the graves of the identified dead, a huge wall commemorates those 3,300 Commonwealth soldiers whose bodies were never found.
The grounds are beautifully kept, and the chapel says, “Their name liveth for evermore.”
When will we ever learn?
We saw an older man working on the plants. He waved “hi,” so I went over to ask about Schindler’s grave. The man instead directed us to the grave of –
Who knew? This William had been a driver. Muhammad, the groundskeeper said another cemetery in Israel has the body of “Harry Potter.” Muhammad gave us a good history lesson about the cemetery and an invitation for tea after we had looked around.
Muhammad has worked at this cemetery for almost 45 years! He has 10 children! The oldest boy died of cancer, but all the rest are working – as taxi drivers, or in chocolate factories, and such. Each child has an average of three children, so far. Muhammad makes 2,000 NIS a month – about $500 U.S. He gave us tea and then after photos, a bunch of fresh stevia to take with us.
On the way out the cemetery entrance, we met a young Jewish woman who is studying medicine at Hebrew University. She says if she has the strength, she wants to keep learning past her M.D. so she can incorporate healing modalities too. It’s likely she is from a family that emphasizes education and has few children, so unlike Muhammad’s situation, her family can help her get a good education that should lead to a well-paying, meaningful career. The two are typical of the differences between many Arab and Jewish families.
Also, when I said what a waste, referring to the young lives lost, she thought I was talking about the waste of the valuable land for a cemetery. 😦
Barry and I kept climbing up to Mount Scopus and found a botanical garden that we strolled through and Hebrew University.
We were hungry so we asked about a good place to eat on campus. Barry and I love the energy of universities and enjoy watching the young students and their grizzled professors. And we got a healthy, tasty (and huge) meal of the day.
Also at the university, we got to check our e-mail and found that someone has stolen our credit card identity and charged $1,300 to a higher learning institution in Texas. 😦 At least the money was to go to someone’s education – and we are covered, but how did they get the information and is anything else in jeopardy? We do have another credit card, so the hassle won’t be as bad it could be. You never know what will happen.
Barry still has his cold, and the sunny day was passing, so we headed back to Michael’s art-filled apartment. He got home soon after and wanted to show us Jerusalem by night. We went first to Notre Dame Guest House that accepts Christian pilgrims from all over the world. But this is not a humble hostel. It’s beautiful and decorated for Christmas.
Michael took us to the roof, and just as we got there at 7 p.m., the church bells started chiming, and we had a spectacular view of the city and the lights. I could feel the joy of Christmas.
Since it was a special night, Michael wanted to celebrate and show us what Jerusalem had to offer. However, the first possible reservation for the Notre Dame restaurant wasn’t until 9 p.m. A special set menu for New Years was offered; it cost $120 (U.S.) each! I’m a vegetarian, so to spend that much money on vegetables, although I’m sure they would be good, was ridiculous. We wished the pilgrims a good dinner – and left.
We also left Michael’s car parked illegally at the curb in front of this swank hotel and walked across the street through the New Gate into the walled Old City of Jerusalem. Most of the shops were closed.
But the Christmas lights twinkled in this section of the city.
We wandered here and there, and then Michael took off through a door marked with an ancient cross.
We followed and came to a Greek Orthodox church, closed for the night.
Nearby windows were decorated for Christmas and through the open door, we could see a big family and the smell the good aromas of their dinner. They invited us in. At first, I was very reluctant, but we did go in – and then they invited us for dinner with the 10 people there: the Greek Orthodox Arab man, who had invited us in and whose birthday it was, his Cyprian wife, his round daughter, his serious singing son, a sweet aunt, with her two sons (one about 13 on the couch who had been bruised and scraped from a fall- and was getting much attention), and two daughters – and a Japanese girl, Uki, from Nagoya. Uki had been lost in the winding streets of the Old City and had been rescued by one of the boys; she had been staying with the family for a couple of weeks. This was the family who invited us in. Their table was loaded with Middle-Eastern foods – rice, hummus, salads, roasted chicken, olives, and more. Michael says their lives are hard; they are a small minority in a land of many minorities. But on this night, everyone was happy, and they shared their joy.
The property in the Old City is not for sale. It is handed down from generation to generation, and this one had an ultra-modern kitchen, a huge flat-screen T.V. that was turned on to some torrid Indian love story. The sound system blared of mainly Greek music. The son who had studied Byzantine singing in Greece had his karaoke microphone and had all the gestures and tones perfected, but he did not want us to take his photo.
The smoke too was thick, the alcohol too plentiful, the music too loud, but everything was wonderful. The Christmas tree in the corner, the religious photos on the wall, the smiling and welcoming family, the good food all made a great experience. Everyone danced, clapped, and laughed.
Barry said the different characters and the noise were like a Federico Fellini movie.
After a couple of hours, the festivities were winding down and then we remembered the car. There’s security at the hotel, so Michael’s car could have been towed. He wanted me to talk to security, but then he had a better idea and had the dad call the hotel and say how the family had invited us in and wouldn’t let us go.
So with our excuse – back to the Notre Dame Guest House we went.
We saw the beautiful cathedral, the diners, the streams of pilgrims from India, the Philippines, – Detroit, and beyond coming for the 10:30 high mass.
But Michael had another plan, so it was off to the American Colony Hotel, another beautiful and decorated for Christmas place that UN members, ex-pats, and the well heeled frequent. A fired burned in the fireplace; we sat in a cozy room by the bar.
I got an Irish coffee and the guys drinks too. And that’s were we were when midnight struck.
We didn’t get to sleep until about 2am. – but what a magical, wonderful, and varied day – the kind of day we hope for and sometimes get wherever we are.
May your 2015 be filled with love, family, friends, good food, good work, health, adventures, and many magical days.
Aloha & Shalom from Jerusalem, Renée & Barry